In anticipation of the Walker’s Jewelry & Accessory Makers Mart this Saturday, we’re highlighting a few of the 25 jewelry and accessory artists whose hand-crafted designs will be on display. First up: metalsmith and jewelry designer Britta Kauppila.
Britta Kauppila wields hammer, hand tools, and fire to create an array of jewelry using recycled stock metal along with materials including rose-cut gems and techniques such as Keum Boo and granulation. She lives and works in Duluth, Minnesota and holds monthly events at her studio in Northeast Minneapolis. Here she discusses her process, products, and inspiration.
Tell me a bit about yourself. Where did you grow up? Where did you study?
I grew up on a hobby farm just outside of Duluth, so the Lake Superior region has always been home for me. My childhood home has actually been in my family since the 1870s and was homesteaded by my great-great grandparents. My dad still lives there today. I jumped around a bit during college but ended up graduating from the University of Minnesota–Duluth with a year off of my bachelor’s program to study gemology at Minneapolis Community and Technical College.
Did you know you wanted to be a metalsmith as a kid?
No, not at all. As I kid I dreamed about being a geologist or archaeologist or historian, but it wasn’t until my senior year of high school that I discovered how transformative art was for me. So heading into college I knew I wanted to study art or art history, and it wasn’t until I was in college and saw a jewelry class in the art department that it all sort of clicked for me. Jewelry! A beautiful mix of history, the natural world, and art, all in one medium. Once I was aware of it I knew that’s what I needed to pursue. So in college I got a job at a local jewelry store to learn more about the industry. I’ve worked for a family-owned small independent fine jewelry store, a corporate chain, and a modern custom design jewelry studio. All these experiences were extremely valuable learning about the world of jewelry and shaped the way I have chosen to participate in this industry.
What’s something important you learned while working for a local design studio?
I learned so much there. I was introduced to local, national, and international leading jewelry designers and artisans. I learned quality is far more important than quantity, and how finishing details elevate work beyond. I learned patience and handmade perfection, how to dedicate yourself to a craft and hone your skills to honor the material and history. It’s also where I built my support circle and met inspiring people from all aspects of the fine craft world.
How was it different from working for a corporate chain?
Very different. Almost like the extreme opposite. With corporate, it’s all about sales and it’s all mass-produced work coming from overseas. I worked there for two months in a sales position. Nice people to work with, but it didn’t align with my philosophy. It was a great learning experience.
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Britta Lynn Design custom ring. Photo courtesy the artist -
Britta Lynn Design earrings. Photo courtesy the artist -
Britta Lynn Design earrings. Photo courtesy the artist -
Britta Lynn Design necklace. Photo courtesy the artist
You often work with new materials. What’s something new you’ve tried or made?
This winter I’ve experimented with felting wool and translating that into jewelry often mixed with metalwork. Winter is a time of darkness and layers, and wool is a perfect material for the season. Cozy, soft. It’s sustainable and natural and so different than metal. It was fun experimenting. Fortunately and unfortunately my custom work keeps me very busy, so time of play and experimentation is limited (although extremely important). Even though it doesn’t end up in my final collection the experience of working with new mediums influences my relationship with metal.
Where do you get inspiration for new designs?
The natural world. I feel most centered and inspired when I’m outside, quiet, studying, learning, observing nature. I love how these simple building blocks create intricate and complex forms. How delicate and small components come together to become something greater and stronger. I love taking these soft, delicate forms of nature and transcribing them into cold, hard metal. Such a beautiful contradiction—you can be tough as steel but still soft like the early spring buds. I also love the transformative power of jewelry—how it gives you confidence and emboldens the wearer. Jewelry is such an emotional art form, for what it symbolizes and what we hold sacred. Encasing these rare and precious stones from the earth for a deeper connection to it. So inspiring!
How do you create an “attitude” with a piece of jewelry?
It’s all about the interaction with the wearer. Jewelry is such an exciting medium because it’s not static. It’s meant to be worn and have a life and have motion. We, as the wearer, play off of this interaction. The bigger and bolder the earring the bigger and bolder we become. When you find that piece of jewelry that speaks to you it’s an amazing rush of confidence, and whenever you put that on it’s like you’re putting on that armor and you become a heightened version of yourself. I love how jewelry does that. That’s why I love to make “power rings.” Rings are so special because you as the wearer get to enjoy them; they’re very personal. Power rings don’t necessarily need to be grand or large, they just need to stir something inside you. Affirmation, empowerment, and inspiration. Looking down and knowing you got this. I did this. I deserve this. This is for me by me. That is powerful.
What’s a challenge you face and how do you overcome it?
The biggest challenge I have is time. When everything is made by my two hands I am limited by my hands and the time in day. I’ve been caught in a stage of needing to grow or needing to limit my work. I’ve taken the big step and hired an assistant to help open my time to more creativity and customer relations. I find I am definitely more of an artist brain than an entrepreneur brain, but as artists we are entrepreneurs, so bridging that gap and wearing both hats has always been interesting and challenging for me.
Does custom-making ever become exhausting?
They’re all really special to me. When someone trusts me to be working with such a special token in their life—often I’m working with reclaimed family stones—that’s never lost on me. I’m still as excited and honored doing the work as I was the first time. It’s an exciting part of people’s lives that I get to be a part of.
What advice might you have for other jewelry artists in the making?
There’s so much to be said about experience. There are different ways to get into each industry. I appreciate the way I was able to get into it and build experiences along the way. Also, I wouldn’t be able to do what I’m doing now without the support of my team and my peers. Find your support system. Community over competition.
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